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Luang Prabang

It is kind of hard to describe just how magical Luang Prabang is without sounding like a rather over excited “advertorial”.  I am writing this in our vast room, in a converted beautiful French colonial townhouse.  Just across the lane is one of the three temples I can see.  Each looks like something out of an oriental fairy tale, with sweeping roofs and glittering gold.  Out of the window of our equally vast bathroom I can see mango trees and the Mekong.

Its 15 year old World Heritage status has seen major, but thankfully sensitive investment in preserving the town.  However it is far from designed to death and if you like crumbling charm there is still plenty about; but the primary school looks totally dilapidated and you cannot help wondering what the story is of how this has not benefited from the obvious money flowing into the town.

As a sign of how laid back it all is I am happy for Eve to cycle along the high road, not something I’d be keen on in most Asia towns (or London for that matter).  Another plus is that there are so few people travelling with children that when you do spot them you immediately strike up a conversation.  Victoria was actually spotted by a fan of her blog and we are now firm friends (of a week), sharing guest house and childcare!  Via swapping on babysitting we have both had an unexpected evening out at one of the rather lovely restaurants in town.

In fact it’s magic so gets into you that you have to remind yourself you are eating the best croissant east of Nice, while sitting under swaying coconut trees, watching the monks stroll past.

Yes there is a lot of tourism in down-town Luang Prabang, but it is a relaxed, chilled and slightly classy type of tourisms. Luang Prabang is not the real Laos (which remains one of the poorest nations in the world), but it is a wonderful place to pass a week or so.  In fact I really should not be telling you about it at all!

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